Round 1

I have spent a lot of time reading about my KLR on web forums. There are some remarkably large active discussion groups on this particular model bike and style (Dual Sport and Adventure Tour). This was one of the primary reasons I went with it...that and I am a big supporter of function in my vehicle purchases. I have popped around a lot of sites and learned a lot about my purchase choices benefits and shortcomings. The shortcomings is what I decided to focus my attentions on first..the potentially more dangerous ones.

The last owner made a couple of changes that include Doohicky mod, (Known failure point that can cause engine failure) Side stand and in gear kill switch removal, (Known problem area as they cause start problems when damaged) and a nice set of Happy Trails engine guard and nerf bars (They protect my fairings, tank and engine well.)

I decided to replace\purchase:

1. Subframe Bolts. - http://www.eagle-m-e.com/productlist.htm Most everyone agrees to replace them with higher grade 8MM bolts and some take it further with a larger 10MM hardened bolt but requires drilling into the frame for extra protection. (I went with this drill through bolt mod as I weigh nearly 260lbs.) Bolt failure could result in significant damage to the bikes electrical, exhaust, airbox or worse the rider as the frame the rider sits on is no longer bolted to the bike.

2. Low profile oil drain plug. - http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/KLR%20650%20Magnetic%20Drain%20Plug.htm Another common failure point that required very little cost and effort to replace. It has been known to get caught on rocks resulting in oil loss in engine and possible engine failure. I bought one with a magnet that is supposed to help capture metal debris in the oil.

3. Clymer Manual. - http://www.motors.ebay.com Now where does this bolt go?

4. Second key- http://www.motors.ebay.com I only got one from the previous owner so I got a second key from a seller on ebay for about 6.00 uncut. Far less than it would cost from the dealer.

5. Amsoil 20w-50 Synthetic Motorcycle oil and filter. www.Amsoil.com This was recommended by my long time friend who races sport bikes. 20W-50 was the weight most KLR owners suggested to use.

The Install. As I mentioned earlier I went with the drill through subframe mod. I read that some think this is overkill but had found at least one occurrence of the basic bolt upgrade kit also failing so the drill through seems the best option. This mod sounded a little scary as I have never drilled through metal and could cause major damage if not done properly but I have my stepfathers 20+ years as a mechanic and a fully stocked tool set I could draw from. Despite this I have found this mod to be a PITA.

The instructions indicate something like 15 minutes drill time and that sounded a bit overestimated but I can honestly say that was far underestimated. After the first 10 minutes we determined that the middle of the frame was solid steel and this quick one hour job was not going to be quick. I spent the next 2 hours slowly drilling through 4"-5" of solid steel. The drill and the bit would get hot and you would have to stop and re oil the hole and bit every couple minutes. Also its a constant effort to try and evaluate if you are in fact straight while maintaining pressure on the bit. Throw in the summer Arizona sun and you end up with a mild case of heat stroke, a shorted out drill that throws sparks (had to have cord rewired) and a dull bit that has to be manually re-sharpened. Finally we were through. Drilled it out with the larger bit..It looked straight and the bolt fit through.

It was probably worth it. I do feel more secure knowing that no matter how hard I ride it now, my subframe will stay attached. The Amsoil oil and new drain plug change went smoothly. The bike runs smoother and a touch quieter. Well worth it.